Editorial
Front Page - Friday, October 2, 2009
Weekly Indulgence
Samara Litvack
When I woke up Saturday morning, my second day in Monteagle, I scanned the room and admired my surroundings. My quaint cabin was perfect for a weekend away from home. It was secluded, fully equipped and the pillows felt like clouds beneath my head. (Really, they were super soft.)
I woke up and began cooking breakfast, only to realize I’d forgotten a couple key ingredients. Luckily, I’d seen a Piggly Wiggly on my way in the day before and the weather was perfect for a nice morning walk. As I passed other cabins, people waved to me from their front porches. Squirrels and birds fluttered across the grounds, and I admired, once again, the peaceful serenity of the mountaintop.
After a hearty breakfast of biscuits with honey and eggs scrambled with cheese, onions and peppers, I took to the front porch to enjoy a cup of coffee. After a shower (I’m telling you – that water pressure is like none other), I headed toward the main road to visit the Monteagle Winery.
Across from Jim Oliver’s Smoke House, a paved driveway leads through rows of grape vines to a long, rustic building. I entered the front door, into a room lined with wooden barrels, and turned right, into a room filled with wine bottles and souvenirs. The man behind the counter was Tony V. Johnston, Ph.D. Yes, a doctor – of wine. I am not kidding.
Johnston got his masters in food science and eventually studied fermentation in grad school. Today, he holds a doctorate of enology (the scientific study of wine and the making of wine) and viticulture (wine and grape production) and is the owner/operator of the Monteagle Winery. He also teaches food processing, food marketing, wine science and wine appreciation at Middle Tennessee State University’s School of Agribusiness and Agriscience.
Johnston says he makes wine only from grapes that can be grown in Tennessee, although they are not all native to this area. In other words, he has no desire to compete with the chardonnay, cabernet and merlot grapes grown in California. Instead of attempting replications, he produces really good wines out of the grapes that grow in his own front yard.
And really good wines they were. After I described the kind of wine I drink at home, the wine doctor began my sampling with the Seyval Blanc. A “French-American hybrid varietal wine,” according to the menu, this one was served cold, it was slightly dry and it reminded me of a Pinot Grigio (which I love). Next, I tried the Mountain Valley White. Made from Vidal Blanc grapes, this French-American hybrid was much sweeter than the first, but still very tasty.
When I asked, Johnston explained that the Seyval Blanc and Mountain Valley White were similar in the same way that horses and zebras are similar. They didn’t taste the same at all, so I saw his point at once, and we moved on to the next white – the Chardonel. This one was sweet also, but in a totally “I could never drink this” different way.
We then switched over to red wines, the first of which was Autumn Red. This wine, made from Chambourcin grapes, was not too dry and quite fruity. (It was also my favorite out of all the wines I tasted that day.)
Next was the Moonlight Lace, a blush wine whose description said it “captures the color of an English rose and the delicate flavor and aroma of rose nectar.” Before I could politely censor myself, I blurted out, “This is weird.” But it was, and I’m supposed to be giving my honest opinion here. (For the record, the people who came in after us found the Moonlight Lace quite tasty.)
I also tried the Ross Creek Red, a muscadine, which I never particularly enjoy, and the Mountain Valley Red, which tastes exactly like grape juice. Johnston joked that since doctors say a glass of red wine a day is good for you, I may as well have one with breakfast. I considered, then dismissed the possibility and moved on to the next sample.
This one, he said, needed the stage to be set. He told me to pretend I was eating the richest, creamiest cheesecake I’d ever tasted, to close my eyes and imagine how this wine would go with that flavor. I did and it was unbelievable. The Purple Reign is 100 percent blackberry wine – no water or other flavors added. It is one of Monteagle Winery’s best sellers, and with an introduction like that, I definitely see why.
After a behind-the-scenes tour, Johnston told me about the Adopt a Vine program, where, for only $25 a year, you can adopt a vine at the winery. You get a certificate of adoption, a letter from your vine every quarter and you can come decorate your vine for the holidays. You also get to pick grapes at harvest and come play at the winery whenever you want. Since it’s only 45 minutes up the road, I honestly think this would make a great investment or a fantastic gift.
If you want to check it out for yourself, the winery’s upcoming Vinofaire celebration on October 10 is the perfect time to do so. Vinofaire will showcase vendors from all over Monteagle Mountain. This will be an extraordinary gathering, complete with live music and Riedel Crystal glasses, made specifically for wine, with seminars proving the difference in everyday glassware and Riedel Crystal. (Seminars are only $10 and you get to keep the glass!) There will also be cigars, food vendors and tours of the winery. It’s guaranteed to be a great time, and I hope to see you there.
Also, Monteagle Winery products are available here in Chattanooga at Hwy 58 Liquors, Vine and Barrel, Lamplight Package Store, Riverside Wine & Spirits Warehouse, Louie’s Liquor and Vintage Wine.
Contact Samara at samara@hamiltoncountyherald.
com.
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