Hamilton Herald Masthead

Editorial


Front Page - Friday, June 20, 2014

A sub above


River City Roundabout



A Jersey Mike’s sandwich maker slices the salami for an Original Italian cold sub. - (Photo by David Laprad)

If you’re in the mood for a sub, you won’t have to travel far in Chattanooga to get one. Sub shops are almost as ubiquitous as churches: there’s one on nearly every corner.

But that doesn’t mean you won’t have to travel a bit to get a great sub. I’ve tried my share of sub shops in town, and have found only one I believe makes an outstanding sandwich. Or rather, that was the case before Jersey Mike’s Subs came along.

Located at 2260 Gunbarrel Road (next to Panda Express), Jersey Mike’s arrives on the local scene with a long history of sub making. Started in 1956 as a mom-and-pop storefront in the seaside town of Point Pleasant, N.J., Jersey Mike’s now has 1,300 restaurants nationwide. If you talk to local franchise owners Ryan Hendrix and Andrew Brooks, they’ll tell you the chain owes its success to three things: freshly baked bread, made using the same recipe as the original mom-and-pop; premium meats and cheeses sliced on the spot; and quick, friendly service.

I like to check things out for myself, though, so I made my way to Chattanooga’s first Jersey Mike’s on opening day – June 4.

The line was long – nearly out the door – but that gave me enough time to take in the surroundings and check out the menu on the wall behind the counter. Like most sub shops, Jersey Mike’s has a bright, clean, and cool interior (I guess they want to make sure the meat stays fresh while you’re eating it), and if you’ve been to any other sandwich place, then you know the drill: get in line, order your sub at the counter, and then shuffle your way to the cash register.

I immediately liked the way the menu is set up. The boards have big, easy-to-read lettering, and are split into three categories: cold subs, hot subs, and wraps. The selections on each board are divided into different categories according to price. Under the names of each sandwich or wrap are the ingredients. I started at the top left of the cold subs board: “Jersey Shore’s Favorite – provolone, ham, and cappacuolo...” Whoa... What?

I asked the girl in front of me if she knew what “cappacuolo” is. She was a first-timer like me, and didn’t have a clue, so she whipped out her smart phone and a did a quick search. Wikipedia says cappacuolo is a “traditional Italian cold cut made from dried, cured muscle running from the neck to the fourth or fifth shoulder of the pork shoulder.” That was almost too much information, but my interest was piqued.

Nevertheless, I continued to make my way through the menu. I considered the Tuna Fish (“Freshly made on premises!”) and the Famous Roast Beef and Provolone (“Cooked on premises using only Certified Angus USDA choice top rounds – the best there is!”), but when I arrived at the Original Italian, I stopped searching. There was cappacuolo again, along with four other Italian meats, begging to be consumed.

The first thing I noticed upon reaching the counter was the selection of the meats. Rather than storing pre-sliced meats in open air containers, Jersey Mike’s meats are wrapped and stored behind a glass case, just like the deli at many grocery stores. This makes a strong mental impression. You won’t find pure turkey or ham – the meat has been processed – but I liked seeing my selection pulled out of the case and sliced as I watch.

(I will say this about the turkey at Jersey Mike’s: according to the person who took my order, one popular sub chain uses “eight-part turkey,” while Jersey Mike’s uses “two-part turkey,” which suggests a better quality meat.)

The surprises weren’t over as I moved down the line. Many sub shops offer a buffet of veggies, condiments, and other add-ons. Not Jersey Mike’s; rather, the restaurant is known for making its sandwiches and wraps “Mikes Way” – with fresh onions, lettuce, and tomatoes topped with a zing of “the juice” (red wine vinegar and olive oil). Before the server slaps all of that on there, he or she will ask if you “want it Mike’s Way,” which I did.

Frankly, the sandwich looked beautiful. I love seeing piles of meats, cheese, and veggies spilling out from under a freshly baked bun. When the girl cut it and revealed the layers within, I knew I’d chosen wisely. Fifteen minutes later, after swallowing the last bite, I was planning my second visit.

Have you eaten a sub and been surprised by the lack of flavor? I have. It’s almost as though some sub shops pile

on condiments to make up for the bland nature of the core ingredients. But Jersey’s Mike’s sandwich was loaded with taste. Instead of tossing a cheese-flavored triangle onto blah-looking meat, they piled it high with delicious Italian meats and cheeses, and the tangy “juice” was the perfect complement. I also received the “quick, friendly” Jersey Mike’s claims to provide.

I don’t know where the sub originated, but a name like “Jersey Mike’s” creates expectations. I’m happy to report the crew at Chattanooga’s one-and-only (for now) “Jersey Mike’s” meets those expectations. Yes, Jersey Mike’s is a chain, but all these years and stores later, you can still taste the passion that must have been poured into the first sandwich at the mom-and-pop.

For more, visit www.jerseymikes.com.