Hamilton Herald Masthead

Editorial


Front Page - Friday, May 3, 2013

River City Roundabout


What's in a name?



When I first heard about the new burger joint in Red Bank, I did what a lot of people have likely done: snickered. And that’s the point. When you name your restaurant Sofa King Juicy Burgers, you’re not promoting your cushy seating; you’re trying to get the attention of people that already have plenty of options for the product you’re selling.

It worked. I had to check the place out.

Finding Sofa King is easy. Located just off the Interstate 27, it’s got a spacious niche on the north side of the street and plenty of free parking. You can’t miss the building, either. Just look for a pale orange exterior covered with flashy decals, including a black cow that looks like he’s just become aware of his destiny.

Stepping into Sofa King is like entering the pages of an issue of Good Housekeeping from the ’50s. Stylistic ads cover the walls, and memorabilia that mirrors the culture of that time is sparingly placed here and there. My favorite items: the boxy black and white TVs and the mannequin with the bulky gas mask, all resting on top of the drinks cooler. The war was over, but paranoia was just setting in. Good times.

Sofa King is laid out like a fast food restaurant, only your burgers are cooked fresh.  My lunch companion and I stepped up to the counter, browsed the menu, and placed our order. Then we took a seat to wait for our burgers and sides to be delivered. Yes, there are sofas, but we opted for one of the many tables.

Sofa King uses grass-fed local beef for its burgers. You can order one of their in-house creations or build your own. Stock options include everything from the Classic Burger, which needs no explanation, to the Nutty Burger, a double-stack of beef laid on a freshly baked bun, slathered with creamy peanut butter and topped with nitrate free bacon. Or you can build your own – including a Veggie Burger, if you’re not the carnivorous type.

I opted to build my own, choosing from a selection of six cheeses, several condiments, a dozen sauces, and a variety of premium toppings that include cage free fried eggs, sliced avocados, sautéed mushrooms, and more.

The menu at Sofa King feels just right. As much as I like Five Guys, their menu is limited. And there are places in town that serve excellent burgers but throw too many options at you. Sofa King hits that sweet spot right in the middle, where simplicity meets adventurous.

We also ordered shakes, another place where Sofa King does something a little different than its competition. Instead of using hard packed ice cream, Sofa King makes its own ice cream by combining all of the ingredients and then cooling them using liquid nitrogen. The “milkshake lab” is located behind a glass partition, allowing patrons to watch as the nitrogen bubbles out of the blender like an experiment in a mad scientist’s lab. The result is a milkshake that’s even thicker than a Wendy’s Frosty and tastes really good.

My lunch companion ordered the Shock-amatic, a shake made with Ghirardelli Chocolate, toasted walnuts, and fresh bananas. She raved about it. I enjoyed my blueberry shake, although I wish I had been more creative when selecting my ingredients. I could have ordered a blueberry banana cheesecake shake with whipped cream!

As I scooped milkshake out of my styrofoam cup, I thought about how I was enjoying lunch. And then I remembered the name: Sofa King Juicy Burgers. While I liked the décor, the menu, and the shake, and could even see myself kicking back on one of the couches with my wife, I had come here to eat a burger. Then the moment of truth arrived on a tray carried by a smiling server.

As I unwrapped the crinkly paper to reveal the burger, I liked what I saw. The visual presentation was good: the poppy seed bun looked warm, the beef and melted cheddar cheese hung over the sides, and I could see my condiments had been applied to order.

For me, the first bite is always THE bite that makes or breaks a restaurant. And my first bite of Sofa King’s burger won me over. It wasn’t juicy, as I was expecting, but it tasted good. Even a skeptic of the local organic food movement would have to agree you can tell the difference in the beef, and you can’t go wrong with freshly made buns.

As much as I enjoyed the burger, I think Sofa King is going to become just as well known for its sides. My onion rings came coated in pancake batter from Aretha Frankenstein’s and deep-fried to crispy perfection in non-hydrogenated vegetable oil – and wow, were they good. I was disappointed as I munched on the last one.

My lunch companion raved about her fried green beans even more than her shake. I tried one. Despite being deep fried, it was crunchy and clearly fresh, not canned.

Later, as I was telling a friend about lunch, I tried to get her to hear the pun in the name. She didn’t catch on, so I explained it to her, trying not to blush. My wife always says a joke loses its steam when you have to explain it, and she’s right. So, while the owners of Sofa King might not get as much mileage out of their risqué name as they’re hoping, they’ll certainly make a name for themselves with their memorable food.