Two years ago, I was driving along Signal Mountain Road when I saw a column of fire and smoke rising toward the sky. As I drew close to the source of the inferno, I saw a small wooden building engulfed in orange and red – Nooga-Q Smokehouse and Grille, one of the Scenic City’s finest barbecue restaurants. The fire had already ravaged the building, making repairs impossible.
This week, I was driving along Signal Mountain Road when I saw the noon sun bouncing off what looked like aluminum siding. As I drew close to the source of the glare, I saw a small building wrapped in metal – Nooga-Q Smokehouse and Grille.
I was on my way to see if it’s still one of the Scenic City’s finest barbecue restaurants.
After claiming one of the many parking spaces that surround the new building, I stepped inside and walked up to the counter, thinking I’d be placing my order and then sitting down. Bristy, one of two girls grinning at me from behind the bar, handed me a menu and told me to find a seat instead. As she stepped into the back, presumably to exchange her already sizable smile for an even bigger one, I picked a table and started poring over the selections.
The menu at Nooga-Q is a many splendored thing. There are appetizers, soups and salads, sandwiches, plates and baked potatoes. Meat options include smoked ribs, beef brisket and pulled pork, beef and chicken. If you’re in the mood for traditional fare, hamburgers, hotdogs, chicken tenders and fried catfish are also available, although I can’t imagine you going for one of those once you’ve caught a whiff of the smoked meats. Well over a dozen delicious sounding sides round out the menu.
Bristy quickly returned to my table with my drink, establishing a precedent she’d maintain throughout the meal. I opted to go with the Ultimate BBQ Nachos, which are listed as an appetizer. I thought ordering something meant to precede the main course would get me out of there without feeling full, but I was wrong.
Within minutes, I learned why Nooga-Q included the word “Ultimate” in the name of their nachos. As Bristy carried my order to my table, the weight of the nachos caused her smile to waver slightly. (I’m kidding, even though the nachos did look heavy!) Once she’d placed the plate in front of me, I was able to take stock of what I’d soon be attempting to digest: Placed on top of a foundation of homemade potato chips was a generous portion of pulled pork, a blanket of melted cheddar cheese, a mound of lettuce and enough sour cream to cover most of the lettuce.
I grabbed the bottle of barbecue sauce on the table and drenched the pile of food. Then I grabbed a chip loaded with cheese and pork and stuffed it into my mouth.
Wow!
I like food that makes a good first impression. The moment the nachos hit my tongue, I was savoring the blend of salty chips and tangy barbecue sauce. As soon as that bite was history, another followed close behind, allowing me to enjoy the contrast between the crunchy chips and the chewy cheese.
I was split on the pulled pork, though. While it was moist, which is a big plus, it lacked the smokiness I was expecting. The barbecue sauce made up the difference, but I prefer for the meat to do the heavy lifting when it comes to taste.
Regardless, the nachos were good enough to convince me to try the ribs someday.
As I ate, I wondered why owner Tami Chambers elected to go with metal décor. Then my mind returned to the fire. When you frame her choice within the scope of what she lost that day, it makes sense. Regardless of how difficult it must have been to work with a metallic theme, she’s done well with it. Nooga-Q has a clean and spacious eating area with plenty of elbowroom, despite looking small on the outside, and three televisions provide a welcome distraction while waiting to eat. Somehow, the place looks like a barbecue joint, even without the wood cabin ambience.
More importantly, the service is quick, the servers are friendly and the food is good. Nooga-Q’s close proximity to downtown is another boon, as is its drive-thru window.
If you were a Nooga-Q regular before the fire and haven’t been back since the re-launch, or if you’ve never eaten at the restaurant but enjoy good barbecue, give it a shot. Just watch out for the glare as you round the first bend off Interstate 27. The sun can be blinding!
Email David Laprad at dlaprad@hamiltoncountyherald.com.