The difference between a restaurant you visit once in a while and an establishment that draws you back time and again can be as subtle as the difference between the phrases “Good” and “So good.” Let me use the hot dog as an example. Get a dog at a ballpark, movie theater, or a general restaurant, and when you take your first bite, you might nod and say, “That’s good.” But bite into a really good hot dog – one that’s a cut above the rest – and you’ll probably say, “Mmm! That’s SO good!”
That’s what I said as I bit into a Chicago Dog at Good Dog, located on Frazier Avenue. Made using New York City’s No. 1 hot dog, Sabrett, and draped with all the right toppings, it was remarkable. If you’ve never had a Sabrett in your mouth, remedy this as soon as you can. As you bite into one, the casing snaps, letting you know it's made from real ingredients, and the juices pour into your mouth and blend with whatever toppings you chose.
Since I went with a Chicago Dog, I had yellow mustard, white onions, peppers, tomatoes, pickles, hot peppers, neon-green relish and celery salt. The only thing missing was the poppy seed bun. The owner, Susan, the daughter of a Dutch immigrant and an Ohio native, said I could skip the relish and go with something spicier, but I stuck with what I knew, and I was glad I did.
The thing that impressed me the most about the toppings was the ratio of toppings to dog and bun. It was perfect. The toppings didn’t smother the taste of the dog, and the bun didn’t collapse in a wet mess. Everything held together nicely, which is important when eating something that doesn’t require a fork.
If you like hot dogs, but Chicago Dogs aren’t your thing, Good Dog likely has something else you’ll enjoy, as they have several unique house-created combinations. If all you want is mustard, ketchup and relish, they’ll do that, too, and not scold you for being unoriginal.
I also tried the hand-cut fries, which come twice-fried with the skin and are served in a paper funnel you can place in a hole in your table. (Yes, Good Dog is a sit-down establishment.) Before my food arrived, Susan visited my table and gave me a rundown of their house-made toppings, including a honey mustard sauce, a wasabi ketchup and a curry ketchup. She also introduced me to her special blend of spices, which she sprinkled on a napkin for me to taste. Finally, she brought me some of her “frites” sauce, a mingling of mayonnaise and vinegar that’s meant to add a little kick to the fries. For all of her effort, I went traditional – kosher salt and ketchup – and thought they were a decent, complement to my dog.
The menu at Good Dog offers more than hot dogs. Recently, the restaurant started serving its own sausages and brats. Curious, I returned another day to try the Italian sausage.
My response was more reserved. I ordered the Italian sausage with brown mustard. In some circles, that’s boring, but as I’ve mentioned in a previous column, I’m not a kraut guy. When I first bit into my sausage, the taste put me off. It took me until halfway through my meal to realize I was experiencing the difference between the store-bought Italian sausage to which I am accustomed and the taste and texture of homemade sausage. Once I had this epiphany, I made a point of really tasting the sausage, and by the time I was done, I appreciated the fine balance Good Dog has achieved between the meat and the spices.
If you’re a homemade sausage or brat connoisseur, give Good God a shot and let me know what you think. On my next visit, though, I’ll be getting a Chicago Dog.
Here are a few notes that will enhance your Good Dog experience. First, don’t even think about parking on Frazier. Just go around back, where there are more spaces, plunk 50 cents into the parking meter for an hour, and go in through the rear entrance.
Second, look over their menu slowly and carefully. Good Dog offers a lot of choices, has several gluten-free offerings, and serves salads and other fare for customers who might be vegetarians or not in the mood for a dog.
Third, enjoy the décor. It’s clean, family friendly, and has that cool North Side eclectic vibe. There’s plenty of seating, too, in case you visit them when they’re busy.
Fourth, try a cupcake for dessert. They’re homemade, and will go nicely with the rest of your meal. If the weather is agreeable, you might even want to get your food to go and venture into Coolidge Park to eat. Hot dogs and cupcakes sound like a picnic, don’t they?
And lastly, but not leastly, ask for Susan. She’s one of the friendliest and most energetic restaurant owners I’ve met.
Chattanooga has a lot of great places to eat. Good Dog has carved out a niche in the city with its delicious hot dogs. Here’s hoping Good Dog has a GREAT 2012, and will be a part of the extraordinary Chattanooga foodscape for years to come.
Email David Laprad at dlaprad@hamiltoncountyherald.com.