Hamilton Herald Masthead

Editorial


Front Page - Friday, January 6, 2012

Keep on Truckin'




Have you ever eaten something so good, the thought of it brings its taste back to your mouth? I had that experience this week thanks to Famous Nater’s. I’d eaten the restaurant’s braised beef and Swiss cheese sandwich for lunch on Friday, and that night was showing a photograph of it to my wife. The sandwich was freshly made, with the meat still steaming and melted cheese covering every morsel. The edges of the hoagie were toasted slightly, and the sheen of butter was glistening on the inside of the roll. Looking at the sandwich reminded me of what it tasted like once I’d dipped it in a cup of hot au jus and took a juicy bite.

Sigh. Is it Friday yet?

I discovered Famous Nater’s by accident. I had committed to Chili’s for lunch on Tuesday, and was out to fetch it. As I walked across the parking lot of the Majestic 12, I noticed a red and white truck in one of the spaces. Painted on the side of the vehicle was the motto, “F.N. good sandwiches.” The naughty word play caught my attention, and I decided to see what kinds of sandwiches were available.

Although I don’t recall the items on the chalkboard menu that day, I was intrigued, and poked my head through the window to see who was inside. Nathan Flynt, owner and chef, smiled and asked if he could help me. I felt bad telling him I was getting lunch elsewhere, but I learned where he was going to be on Friday and promised to return.

When Friday arrived, I didn’t wait for lunch. Instead, I hit Famous Nater’s for breakfast. His morning menu is simple: an omelet sandwich and a hash brown. Keeping things simple in the a.m. is a good idea, although the lack of meat surprised me. Nate looked surprised when I asked if he could throw some bacon or sausage into the omelet, so I guess we’re even.

Even without the meat, which is a personal preference you might not share, the sandwich was good. The omelet was lighter than others I’ve eaten, but still tasty, and I appreciated the cheese. Thankfully, the hash brown made a bigger impression. While hearty, it wasn’t greasy, and it had a slight kick I enjoyed. Biting into it was one of those “revelation” moments that happen when you eat something for the first time and it becomes an instant favorite.

Even though breakfast was substantial enough to keep my mid-morning hunger pangs at bay, lunch could not arrive too soon. Nathan had more items on his noontime menu, including a herb roasted turkey sandwich with red pepper jelly and cream cheese on six-grain bread, a roasted turkey sandwich, a Turkey Cuban, and a peanut butter sandwich called the “L’ill” (sic) Debbie, which Nathan makes with Nutella, cashew butter, Nutty Bars and Neidlov’s white bread. Famous Nater’s also serves salads, but I didn’t see any on the menu.

Obviously, Famous Nate’s is no four-wheeled greasy spoon, but rather offers classic sandwiches with a gourmet twist. Part of what makes Nathan’s sandwiches and other creations worth eating is his strict food ethic - he makes every item on his truck using as many locally produced ingredients as possible. A good example is the Thousand Island Dressing for his Turkey Katherine, a reuben. Nathan makes the mayonnaise, the ketchup and the pickles using items he purchased at either the Chattanooga Market or the Main Street Farmers Market. He could probably get away with cheating, but he’s passionately devoted to slow food.

Also, Nathan’s training and experience as a chef have given him a foundation in fine cuisine.

Nathan received his formal education in the culinary program at the Art Institute of Atlanta. Following graduation, he worked at the Ritz-Carlton Buckhead, where he trained under “great French chefs.” From the Ritz, he moved to Bacchanalia and worked for James Beard award-winning chef Anne Quatrano. Working at Bacchanalia led to a sous chef position at Float Away Cafe, where he remained until he moved to Boston.

In Boston, Nathan wound up at another James Beard Award winner’s kitchen: chef Michael Schlow’s Radius Boston. He then moved to Chattanooga, where he found work at Hennen’s and Blue Plate. One year later, Nathan became the opening chef at Public House. He took the next step in his evolution as a chef when he launched Famous Nater’s this year.

Nathan calls the food truck movement “the hottest trend in the restaurant business” - and for good reason. For starters, a vehicle requires less starting capital than a brick and mortar. The model also allows chefs to learn how to run a business on a small scale. And it’s a great way for a chef to have his or her own restaurant.

Nathan appears to be as devoted to cleanliness, and storing and preparing his food properly, as he is to making great-tasting sandwiches, as he earned a 99 on a pop health inspection. He proudly displays his pink slip in the passenger window of his truck.

While Nathan might not be world famous yet, he’s earning a name for himself in Chattanooga.  His sandwiches are delicious, not only because he uses locally produced ingredients, but also because you can taste the care, expertise and creativity he puts into them.

Here’s wishing Nathan the success for which he’s worked. And here’s hoping Friday comes quickly!

To find where Famous Nate’s will be on a given day, as well as the menu for the current week, visit www.famousnaters.com.  Email David Laprad at dlaprad@hamiltoncountyherald.com.