Here’s a pro tip for when you take a date to Little Venezuela, an authentic Venezuelan eatery at 511 Market Street in the heart of downtown Chattanooga: Don’t order a cachapa.
I recommend this not because the cachapas are a poor choice for a meal. On the contrary, if I was standing next to you in line and heard you order a cachapa while you were dining alone, I’d respond with “Excellent choice.”
I warn against ordering a cachapa while on a date – especially a first date – because there’s no graceful way to eat one. At least in my experience.
A cachapa is a Venezuelan dish made from ground corn that’s cooked into a thick, rustic pancake and folded over a gooey white cheese. It arrives golden and crisp on the outside, the cheese oozing out from the middle. When you bite into one, the sweet corn and buttery sizzle from the grill hit first. Then the saltiness of the cheese kicks in, balancing the sweetness.
Cachapas are delicious and comforting in all the ways savory food can be. The issue on a date would be the cheese, which declines to be broken into polite bites.
After spearing a bit with my fork and stretching it several inches – only to watch it retreat to my plate when I stopped trying – I employed a number of techniques that are likely listed under “Don’t” in the “Do’s and Don’ts of First Dates” handbook.
These included lowering my head to my plate and gnawing off a bite, rolling a string of the cheese on my fork like it was a strand of spaghetti and trying to saw the cheese with my butter knife. I felt like I was dining on Reed Richards, the rubbery superhero from the Fantastic Four who can stretch to absurd lengths without breaking apart.
What mad concoction is this cheese? Queso de mano, which translates to “hand cheese” in English. Curious to learn more, I queried Google, which revealed that it’s made from a combination of cow’s and ewe’s milk and has a “soft, elastic and creamy texture similar to mozzarella.”
My cachapa suggested as much, especially the “elastic” bit.
So, if I heard you order a cachapa while on a date, I’d lean in and conspiratorially suggest an alternative, such as an order of empanadas or pastelitos (a fried pastry with a savory filling), or an arepa (a savory filling sandwiched between two cornmeal patties). All of these can be tastefully consumed in front of someone you’re trying to impress.
The good news? Little Venezuela also excels at preparing these and other menu items. At least in my experience.
During a subsequent visit, I ordered the avocado and chicken salad arepa, a popular combination in Venezuela. The cornmeal patties can be fried or baked; I chose baked, which were crispy on the outside but soft and steamy on the inside. The chicken salad had a rich, mustardy tang, likely from its spices.
Meanwhile, the pastelito is similar to an empanada, with a flaky crust that gives way to a satisfying crunch and a mouthful of seasoned beef – or whatever savory filling you choose. Don’t skip dipping your pastelito into the garlicky sauce that comes on the side.
I’d like to be able to state with authority that the food at Little Venezuela is authentic. But until I ate there, I’d never feasted on the cuisine of the South American country. Conga Latin Food on Main Street brought San Salvador to Chattanooga and Taco Nooga on Frasier Avenue prepares authentic Mexican cuisine, but until Amarilys opened Little Venezuela where China Cafeteria once operated, there were no Venezuelan dining options in Chattanooga.
I spoke with Amarilys through her daughter, Rebeca, who served as our translator. A native of Venezuela, Amarilys came to Chattanooga several years ago to be with family and then opened Little Venezuela about a year ago to bring the food of her country to Chattanooga.
Amarilys laughed as her daughter translated her story about how she nearly set her house in her home country on fire as she tried to learn how to make black beans. While I might not be an authority on Venezuelan food, I can state with authority that Amarilys’ skills have improved by leaps and bounds since then. Little Venezuela is one of those relatively rare eateries where you can taste the savvy and the passion that goes into preparing each order.
I was seated in a restaurant in Chattanooga, but if I’d closed my eyes and taken a bite of the arepa, I would have been able to fool my senses into believing Amarilys had invited me to her home in Venezuela and prepared a meal just for me. At least that’s what the satisfying flavors and the lingering warmth of her food, once consumed, said to me.
I wish the food at Little Venezuela was saying these things to more people. I’ve already mentioned that Little Venezuela is a local rarity. Unfortunately, so are its customers. While I was lunching there Monday, I met Tim Moore, the talent behind the local food blog, Tim Eats (instagram.com/tim_eats___). As we chatted with Rebeca, she suggested that people might not be aware that China Cafeteria vacated the space over a year ago and that a new variety of international cuisine has come to the Scenic City.
Perhaps. Little Venezuela’s tiny storefront is sandwiched between other businesses in perhaps the most nondescript stretch of buildings on Market Street. It’s one of those “blink and you’ll miss it” places, assuming you’re even looking in that direction when you blink.
But open the door and you’ll see a space that’s alive with bright yellows, blues and reds; you’ll hear spirited music; and Rebeca will greet you with a cheerful smile and invite you to step into a sparkling clean establishment. As you enter, the order counter and menu board will be to your left; on the opposite wall, a large painting of Venezuela will catch your eye.
It’s a space I hope more people discover. Open 9 a.m-9 p.m. every day, Little Venezuela is one of those restaurants I’d wager you’ll return to time and again. I’m also certain you’ll tell your friends about it and take family there when they’re in town.
If you take anyone but a date, then go ahead and try the cachapa. It would be an excellent choice.